Some plant material we stock: Crimson King Maple, Emerald Queen Maple, Little Leaf Linden, Weeping Ginko, Flowering crab, Red Maple varieties such as autumn blaze and red sunset, Sunburst (yellow leaved) locust, Shademaster (green leaved) locust, White pine, (very) Blue spruce, (green) Blue spruce, Austrian pine, and Concolor white fir.
We have a photo album that we bring out to you that will show you the basic structure, color, and shape of each type of plant. Many people want to walk into the nursery with us and "pick" the tree that suits their fancy.
Planting time is best done when the tree or plant is still dormant. Often times though the ground and weather do not co-operate. Cooler temperatures, moist humid days, and overcast skies create optimum times to plant. Plants can be planted once they have their leaves but this creates more of a challenge. Transporting when leaves are on causes wind injury. Heat causes water transpiration loss. Adjustments must be made to compensate for this or the tree may die back or just die. Die back from transplanting shock can continue for years as the tree struggles to overcome it's dis-advantages.
I always suggest doing a "quality" planting. The 10 best steps taken in planting give the highest degree chance of survival and rapid growth. We back-fill the planting hole with "BIONUTRITION". This is a combination of essential nutrients and organic material to help retain water and create a medium for the new small roots to grow into, along with mycorrhizae. We always use steel staking and wire guys to hold the tree straight while it settles and acclimates into it's new soil and surroundings. Once a tree gets crook-ed it is nearly impossible to straighten it with-out doing some type of undesirable damage. We lastly place a good quantity of wood chip mulch around the base which helps keep the ground cool and moist.
We also have availability of other plant material which may not be listed. We can help you decide on the best type of plant for what your needs may be. Give us a call.
PH and Soil Fertilizer
Many people don't understand what PH is. Soil is measured by how much acidity, neutrality, or alkalinity is in the soil. Too much acidity or alkalinity can "burn" plants or lock up nutrient and make it "unavailable" to the plant even though it is there. Soil PH is one of the first things that need attention when analyzing the soil. Clay, sand, and organic material offer unique characteristics to make a soil productive.
Fertilizer, when bought in in a bag contains a ratio of the percentage of each specified nutrient per weight of the bag. An example: 10-05-10 in a 50 pound bag. The first number 10 of the 50 pounds is nitrogen, so that 10% or 5 pounds of the 50 pound bag is nitrogen. The second number 5 is phosphorus which is 5% or 2 1/2 pounds of the 50 pound bag. The third number 10 is potassium which is 10% or 5 pounds. When added up we see that we have 5 pounds, 2 1/2 pounds, and 5 pounds of the 3 nutrients which equals 12 1/2 pounds of nutrient from the 50 pound bag. The rest is filler.
To know how much of each element would be needed, we do a soil sample. The sample is sent into a laboratory which gives results in an amount of nutrient needed per 1,000 square feet or per acre. We then can arrive at a formula and mixture to custom blend and distribute nutrient at the recommended rate for your tree or lawn. Often times nutrient is divided into more than 1 application per year so as not to over-load the soil.
We are licensed by the Department of Agriculture in the following categories: Fruit Crops, TurfGrass, Ornamental, Aquatic, Right-of Way, General Pest Management, and Mosquito.
We abide by the code of doing the least amount of harm to the environment by adhearing to the concept of Integrated Pest Management. Damage thresholds are weighed against the cost to control and potential damage to the environment. A few bugs may not cause enough damage to warrant action to control a pest. An out-break may cause considerable loss without intervention. Bugs develop in stages and have a life cycle. At certain stages they may be more susceptable than at other stages to being controlled. A bug's life cycle and devlopment does not necessarily fall on certain days or times of a month or year. Temperature,and humidity play important roles. The most accurate way to determine an insects potential stage of development is to use degree days. Each insects life cycle must be known. The technology is available for modern control methods.
In a lot of our tree chemical use, we inject chemicals directly into a tree with specialized equipment. This is similar to us when we go to a doctor and are given injections. The chemicals go directly into the system. Chemical spraying machines put up to 80% of the chemicals used on the ground, buildings, and on non-target beneficial insects, birds, and animals. Run-off goes into our lakes, rivers, and streams. Sometimes letting an insect run it's course is the best thing to do. Most always, when we kill bad bugs with chemicals we also kill beneficial ones. Chemicals don't differentiate. It has been found that some of the bad bugs proliferate by becoming immune. Good bugs seem to be more susseptable to chemical effects. We can help you decide whether some type of control method is prudent and wise.
Most Spiders love dark, moist, and dry conditions They like to live and hide in cracks and crevices. Everyone seems to hate having spider webs near where they walk and live. Spiders do have their place, but we would like that to be somewhere else.
We use a chemical that is non-corrosive, dries quickly, and will not damage painted or vinly surfaces. The chemicals toxicity lasts for about 3 weeks. We use a ultra-low volume sprayer so your building doesn't have to get DRENCHED in chemical. We spray when timing is right. One spray done correctly at the right time gives all season protection. Chemicals don't kill egg masses. We guarantee results. Sometimes spiders migrate in from neighboring trees and un-sprayed property. If this happens we will return and re-spray your property at no charge. This is not our fault yet we want you to have an enjoyable, spider free summer. Call us at 1.989.728.2922 to get a quote. We do let people know that inorder to adequately protect your buildings, that a fine spray must get into all cracks and crevices such as: window sills, eavetroughs, downspouts, cement and masonry, fireplace chimneys and stone work, window shutters, foundation plant material, decks, porches, stairways, and underhangs and overhangs. We also spray garages, sheds, docks, boat hoists, paddlewheels, and boats. Let us do your spider spraying and be free of them this summer.
If you have a plant or insect problem, we can help you. Call 728.2922, 305.1279, or 305.1268